Sungai Lembing situated 42km from Kuantan, Pahang was once dubbed the El Dorado of the East. It had the largest, longest and deepest sub-terrain tin mine in the world. The tin ore deposit discovered by the British in 1888 rivalled the underground mines of Cornwall in England. London-based Pahang Consolidated Company Ltd (PCCL) incorporated in 1905, was awarded a 77-year lease to operate a pit mine. The Sungai Lembing Mine is a network of three mines comprising:

Myah: Reaching 700 metres underground, it is the deepest. Here, there are 14 levels of 500-metre long tunnels, with each level separated by a depth of 100 feet.

Taibeto: Tunnels here run 500-metre deep and are about 332 metres long, with a depth of some 30 metres separating each tunnel.

Gakak: Still being operated by independent miners to this day Apparently, the mines were closed in 1986 following the collapse of the world tin market. However, there are documents alluding that a court order arising from the mismanagement of the mine had resulted in its foreclosure. PCCL took good care of its 2,000-strong work force, paying them about RM500 a week, tax-free. It provided amenities like school, playing field, hospital and a cinema screening the latest English movies. Workers enjoyed free electricity and piped water, when most parts of the country still depended on wells and kerosene lamps. Surviving old timers fondly remember never having to bother switching off their house lights. Almost everything from England could be bought on credit at the company's huge trading store. A sentry post was erected at the town entrance to keep outsiders at bay. A steamer, commissioned by the company, enabled residents to travel to Kuantan via the Kenau River. Then, the town suffered a series of calamities from which it never fully recovered. In 1921, almost all the shop houses were ravaged in a fire. Five years later, floods inundated the whole town. During the Japanese Occupation from 1941 to 1945, the mine was deliberately flooded by the British to deny the Japanese access. The communist insurgency during the Emergency years brought unfamiliar hardship. The collapse of the world tin market was the coup de grace that sealed the mine and led to the town's eventual fall into obscurity.

ATTRACTIONS

Today, the quaint colonial bungalow, once the residence of the mine's general manager, is a 'must-see' museum showcasing mining paraphernalia, and providing a video rundown of the mine during its heyday. Some parts of the mine have been reinforced to enable visitors to have a feel of the tunnel. However, the bulk of the equipment and machinery - the finest in its time - have long since disappeared. There are a few hanging bridges connecting the villages across the Kenau River to the town, and certain sections of the surrounding mountain have that eerie 'Twilight Zone' ambience. Sungai Lembing is endowed with natural attractions from the mountain, rivers and waterfall. Some of these are:

Panorama Hill

A short walk from the mine, Panorama Hill is popular with weekend visitors who endure the one-hour climb to enjoy the enchanting view of sunrise sneaking up between the surrounding verdant hills.

Mount Tapis Nature Park

The 1512 m Mount Tapis located 16 km away is much frequented by jungle trackers. The park is also a favourite venue for 4WD enthusiasts for its challenging off-road terrain and choice camping and fishing spots. A fast flowing river provides opportunities for shooting the rapids. The authorities frequently patrol the park to deter poaching, illegal logging and prevent \?over-enthusiastic\' fishing.

Rainbow Fall

From a vertical drop of 200m, gushing water disperse into a fine mist as it reaches the bottom and in the process, a rainbow is formed, usually between sunrise and noon.

Kampung Mas Orang Asli Settlement

The Jakun and Semoq Beri aboriginal tribes live here. They have turned to rubber tapping and cattle rearing for a living but occasionally forage into the surrounding jungle to partake in nature\'s bounty.

Pasir Kubur (Sandy Graveyard)

The name is derived because of a graveyard located near the sandy riverbank. This is a favourite campsite and can be quiet crowded on weekends, as visitors never fail to drop by for a picnic and a dip in the cool and pristine river.

Charas Cave

Charas cave lies at the foot of the 1000-metre high Panching Hill. A steep flight of stairs leads to a Buddhist temple inside. There are several rock formations resembling religious idols, and a 30ft-long statue of the reclining Buddha. Climb another flight of stairs and you will be rewarded with a breathtaking sight of the surrounding mountain and as well a majestic view of Sungai Lembing town.

Sungai Jin Deer Farm

The animals were originally brought from Mauritius and Australia and reared for their meat. Facilities include a 25ft-high observation tower and a travis where visitors can feed the deers.

GETTING THERE

From Kuala Lumpur, use the East Coast Highway to get to Kuantan. Exit at Kuantan Toll Plaza, turn right at the first traffic lights and follow the directions on the signboard. Sungei Lembing is about 30 minutes drive away. An hourly bus service is available from the Kuantan bus terminal. -- BERNAMA